Can Glycolic Acid Reduce Retinoid Irritation? What Research and Users Say

The Unexpected Pairing: Glycolic Acid and Retinoids Together?

For years, a cornerstone of skincare advice has been to avoid using potent actives like Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), such as glycolic acid, and retinoids (like retinol or tretinoin) in the same routine. The common wisdom states that combining these powerful ingredients can lead to excessive irritation, dryness, and damage to the skin barrier. However, a surprising angle is emerging from recent discussions and some research: could using glycolic acid actually reduce the irritation associated with retinoids?

Challenging the Conventional Wisdom

The idea that exfoliating acids might be used alongside or even before retinoids is gaining traction. Some experts suggest that this pairing might be perfectly acceptable, provided the skin can tolerate it. This perspective is quite different from the widely accepted practice of alternating nights or using them at different times of the day.

Delving into available scientific literature reveals studies where products containing both types of ingredients were found to be effective and well-tolerated. While formulation plays a key role in such products, a review specifically looking at glycolic acid’s impact on retinoid irritation yielded intriguing results. Across various studies, a decrease in irritation was observed when glycolic acid was included.

A notable small trial within that review involved individuals new to retinoids. They used a low-concentration retinol cream, with or without a glycolic acid treatment. After four weeks, the group incorporating glycolic acid showed a significant reduction in redness, dryness, and peeling compared to the group using retinol alone. This suggests a potential mitigating effect of glycolic acid on common retinoid side effects.

Real-World Experiences and Anecdotes

Beyond the lab, many skincare enthusiasts have independently experimented with this combination, sometimes without even knowing it went against common advice. Numerous personal accounts highlight success stories:

• Individuals report having excellent skin health and minimal retinoid issues even when starting out, despite using this combination.
• Users combining glycolic acid toners or serums with retinoid creams or gels often note remarkably good skin texture and clarity.
• Some feel that building tolerance to retinoids first was key before successfully introducing an AHA on the same night.
• Experienced users who have integrated both actives into their routine for extended periods report significant improvements in their skin, sometimes simplifying their routines by focusing on just these two types of actives.

It appears that for many whose skin can tolerate it, the combination can lead to impressive results, although some remain hesitant due to past experiences or concerns about potential sensitivity.

Why Might This Unexpected Pairing Work?

While seemingly counter-intuitive, there are potential reasons why combining these ingredients might not always lead to disaster and could even be beneficial for some:

• Different Mechanisms: Retinoids work by increasing cell turnover and influencing cell behavior at a deeper level, while AHAs like glycolic acid primarily work on the skin’s surface by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells. These distinct actions may interact in complex ways.
• Synergy: As suggested by some, certain ingredient combinations can create synergistic effects, leading to better outcomes or tolerance than either ingredient used alone, provided the skin barrier is healthy.
• Managing Shedding: Glycolic acid’s exfoliating action might help manage the flaking that can occur during retinization, contributing to a smoother skin surface.
• Formulation and Concentration: The specific products used, including the concentration of actives and the overall formulation’s pH and buffering capacity, play a crucial role in how well the combination is tolerated.
• Skin Tolerance: Individuals who have already built a strong tolerance to retinoids may find their skin is robust enough to handle the addition of an AHA without excessive irritation.

Important Considerations Before Trying

Despite the promising research and positive anecdotes, combining glycolic acid and retinoids is not suitable for everyone, especially those with highly sensitive skin or compromised skin barriers. If you’re considering this approach, proceed with extreme caution:

• Assess Your Skin: Ensure your skin is not currently irritated, sensitive, or compromised before starting.
• Build Tolerance Separately: Ideally, your skin should be comfortable using each active individually before attempting to combine them.
• Start Slowly and Infrequently: When introducing the combination, do so perhaps once or twice a week.
• Patch Test: Always perform a patch test on a small area of your face to gauge your skin’s reaction.
• Listen to Your Skin: Pay close attention to how your skin feels. Stinging, burning, excessive redness, or prolonged irritation are signs that this combination is too much for your skin.
• Consider Application Method: Some users find waiting periods between applying the products helpful.
• Sun Protection: Both ingredients increase photosensitivity, making daily, adequate sun protection non-negotiable.

While the traditional advice to use AHAs and retinoids on alternate nights remains a safer starting point for many, the emerging evidence and the experiences of some users open up the possibility that, for certain individuals and under careful conditions, combining glycolic acid and retinoids could be a valid approach, potentially even helping to mitigate irritation.

{< skin-analysis >}

Experience personalized skincare recommendations with COSMI Skin!

• Tags:
• Glycolic Acid
• Retinoids
• Retinol
• Skincare Routine
• Skin Irritation
• AHAs
• Chemical Exfoliants
• Combining Skincare
• Sensitive Skin
• Skincare Research